Blade 350 QX:
I'm a lifelong geek and the technology in today's hobby quadcopters is amazing. Starting with a small Syma X1 I got hooked on the sport. The X1 is small,
inexpensive, very durable, and a lot of fun to fly. But it has limitations. It doesn't handle much of a breeze and the "toy" radio transmitter is very limited. So
I spent much of the winter studying the larger 350 class quads. I settled on the Blade 350 QX.
This craft has tons of tech. to keep me happy. GPS (position hold silo, return to home (RTH), stick relativity, Safe Circle), an electronic compass (works w/GPS),
barometric pressure sensors (altitude control), an accelerometer (direction and tilt) and more. The different flight modes make it very flyable for the novas to the
expert. It can easily handle 15MPH wind and has amazing performance.
When I purchased my QX the firmware V2.0 had just come out and added aerial
photography (AP) mode to the Smart, Stability, and Agility flight modes. The GPS antenna had been relocated to the rear back arm to move it further from the front
camera mount to help reduce RFI. And a new status error check matching the compass and GPS was added.
I've found the 350 QX to be a ball to fly. I still fly quite conservatively but my skill grows each time I go out.
Flying any RC aircraft you can expect crashes and my learning curve has included a few. The bad news is the QX is
quite fragile and does not handle crashes. I'm already on my 3rd body and this one has been repaired with glue. The good news is that all the parts are readily
available. One of my considerations to buy the Blade was the legendary support from Horizon Hobby. Having good certified local hobby shops with supplies
was a must too. I do get a lot of items online but local support is great.
Many of the experienced guys on the QX forums put down Smart mode. They do not like Stick Relativity and warn
not to get dependant on it. I have vision issues and find it a life saver. A quad unlike a plane looks the same no matter which way it is facing. And to make that
even worse a quad can fly in any direction so it's forward flight might not be the same as the direction it facing. This is called orientation. Normally you fly relative
to the front of the aircraft. This seems logical until you fly toward yourself. Then aircraft relativity demands you reverse the radio transmitter stick controls. Meaning
that to go right you push the stick to the left and vice versa, like working in a mirror. Now I had mastered this with my X1 but since it had limited capabilities to fly
very far away it was always visible. Flying my QX it's common to have it out 400 feet or more and at those distances
it becomes very difficult for me to see it's detail. As I've already said I do fly in Stability mode (w/o Stick Relativity) but not at much distance. I've found that I can
handle Stability better if I stay off the rudder stick a keep the front of the quad facing away from me.
I think one of the more amazing flying "tricks" is flying a pass in front of your self in Smart mode and using stick relativity give the
350 QX hard yaw on the stick.
This will spin the quad while it flies a stright line. You can throw the stick the opposite way and reverse the spin in the same pass. Not many models can do that!
I think a more difficult transition from flying the simple X1 and going to the 350 QX is not the quad but
the radio. Moving from the toy TX the X1 BNF had to the DX6 is like day and night. I was a thumb
flyer before. I would just place my thumbs on the tops of the sticks and directed the X1 in flight. With the
DX6 I can still get away with that when in Smart mode but not when moving up through the higher
modes. Since Smart mode has considerable self leveling active you don't get into trouble if you go to the full range of travel with the sticks. This is even true
with 100% rates set. But when moving up to Stability mode the QX is much faster and more responsive. I've found
that I need to use my thumb and fore finger on the side of the sticks to better maintain control. This probably isn't news to any experienced RC pilot but this is
my 1st good TX. To me this is what has made the transition from Smart to Stability more difficult and not orientation.
Throttle stick control is mode dependant. In Smart mode the ceiling is 45 meters high or about 150 feet. The throttle movement is relative to that height, so 50%
would be half way up or about 22M/75 feet. But in AP mode there is not a fixed ceiling so it works differently. AP mode at 50% throttle stick gives you a hover
much like Smart modes altitude hold. And up or down from the middle either raises or lowers the QX. Please
remember that the FAA wants us to stay under 400 feet. The 1st RC craft that hits a manned aircraft ruins the hobby for all of us.
Above I talked about crashes and along with that goes repairs. The prices on parts cover a large range and can get expensive. But I've found that most damage
is found to occur on the plastic body. The body is thin (I'm sure to keep weight down) and has little strength. However when installing the 32 small body screws
it firms up well. The internal parts, mostly electronics are straight forward and easy to replace as needed. The motors do need monitoring. I simply use my finger
to gently turn a propeller and both feel and listen as the motor turns. It should turn freely and make no sound (like grinding). Also the motor shaft should not have
any play in it when pulling the prop up or down. This would be a sign of bearing failure.
Doing the maintenance calibrations on the QX is important and needs to be done if you have had a crash or just every
couple of months to have optimum performance. I have a link to the Blade how to videos on the main page. I've performed the Pressure Sensor and Compass
calibrations a number of times. But the Accelerometer calibration has eluded me. I watched the video and read the manual and continued to have problems
maintaining control of the QX in flight to where I could complete the procedure. Adjusting the flight with just the trim
controls was not easy. Finally I called Horizon Hobby (HH) support and they said to use the procedure in the new QX2
manual. The reason I was told is because even though I have a 1st generation QX I have the firmware
V2.0 model. This firmware is also used in the QX2. In this routine you don't fly in
the same modes as I had been doing before. Also the trims are not used as the RTF QX2 comes with the
DX4 which doesn't have trim controls. So as soon as I have a day when the wind is calm I'm giving
this a try. I'll update this when I do.
So do I like the 350 QX?
I LOVE IT!
Here is a very nice write up by Flightengr on HeliFreaks.com about the different
flight modes. LINK It has been updated to include FW V3.0.
Tip: This is not so much a tip as a clarification of terms. The 1st 350 QX
was upgraded in the Spring of 2014 to the QX with firmware V2.0. So this became
the QX V2
This added the AP mode (Aerial Photography, purple) and moved the GPS antenna out to the right rear arm. In the Summer of 2014 the new
QX2 was released. This model is the Aerial Photography model meaning that it comes with a gimbal and C-Go camera.
The QX2 also had some minor hardware changes such as a long receiver antenna running down the leg, and a fatter body
to accommodate a larger 3000mAh battery.
Now Blade has come out with the 350 QX2 without the AP hardware (no gimbal or camera). This is considered
the QX2 "Base" model.
Summary: The 1st upgrade was firmware V2.0 making the QX V2.0 which added the
AP flight mode.
Then the hardware was upgraded adding aerial photography gear and this was named the QX2 but lets call it the
And the newest version of the 350 is called the QX2. Confused, I understand why.
Tip: Another point to make on terminology is about Smart mode. Smart mode is the easy flight mode meaning that all of the automated
controls are active.
These include altitude hold and GPS position hold. This mode also has the Safe Circle that creates a 15 foot diameter circle behind the
QX that the Quad will not enter.
I can't tell you how many time I have read someone refer to the Safe mode. It's Smart mode with the Safe Circle and it's indicated by the green status light.
Tip: I have crashed hard two times. You can find my write up on how to replace the body of the
QX here. LINK
Please click "Show More" for links and more information
After a number of months now I can report that the replacment LiPo HH sent is holding at storage charge (about 7.5V). Since I'm not flying
my DX6 is just sitting in my case. Before this battery both of the other ones
suffered from the drain problem many have reported. Thank you HH for standing by me on this issue.
Spektrum™ AirWare™ Software Update Multi Rotor changes LINK
for my DX6 this is the page LINK
Spektrum released a new version of the AirWare firmware (V1.03 for the DX6). This is a big update for Multi-Rotor models.
Go to the Community Site Login LINK
and pick it up. Here is the change log PDF
Don't forget to get the new sound file V1.08 that's mentioned at the bottom of the change log pdf.
The install instructions are on both sets of download pages.
While the new programming will vary slightly from transmitter to transmitter, common features will include:
New channel input names: Altitude, Roll, Pitch and Yaw
New multi-rotor items for pre-flight checklists
New multi-rotor flight mode setup
New channel assignment options that let you customize control inputs for each flight mode
New voice alert options for multi-rotor functions
Update Version List
This AirWare release applies to the following transmitters and updates their software to the version shown. Remember to back up the models in your transmitter's memory to an SD card before installing this update.
The DX6 G2 is the newest of the Spektrum radio transmitters (TX). It uses the same AirWave software
as the DX9 and DX18 so that model
configuration files (.spm) are transferable and usable across them all.
They also share the same voice files. Voice is one of the major features I like on this radio.
With voice commands you can stay focused on your flying and don't have to take your eye off to look down at the TX. Throw a switch and you get verbal feedback
confirming the action. Use the countdown timer and you'll know your flight time and estimated battery usage. And if the batteries in your
DX6 are running low it will clearly give you a warning. You have detailed options that allow many
customizations to what and when commands are said. Note: This TX does not have a vibrate mode to alert you of events.
This TX has three 3-way switches and four 2-way switches and AirWave allows you to configure them for any function you wish. The display panel is clear and
easy to read as it's back lit. And the radio is comfortable to handle with its rubber grips. Another of the key points is that this TX can store 250 model configurations.
I only fly the 350 QX with it but I still have 3 or 4 different model setups that I've tried out. The programming
is fairly straight forward, once you find all the options. A simple roll and click with one button takes you through the many menus and features. A standard SD
card can be used to import and export model configurations. As well installing updates to either the operating system or language files is easy to perform.
This is a full size radio and is well balanced. It hangs from the neck strap loop flat and level. The joy sticks are smooth and provide precise control while flying. The
tops of the sticks are crown like and easy to grip when using thumbs. A feature I've not used is the wireless trainer, but sounds like an excellent feature. The radio
comes with 4 AA batteries but I have on order the optional Li-Ion 2000mAh rechargeable pack. The transmitter protocol is DSM2 and DSMX and the
350 QX uses DSMX for binding.
Tip: When replacing the AA batteries with the optional Lithium Ion rechargeable battery pack be sure to change the setting for battery type
so that the low battery warning alarm is correct. This is a 2S 2000mAh 7.4V pack.
There seems to be a lot of confusion about this DX6 battery but I'm 99.9% sure that it is the
You can get it from HH with a power supply that has A/C plugs for different countries. I think it's way to expensive. Most any wall wart that is A/C to 12V DC
and 500mA (0.5Amp.) output should work. Look on eBay for one under $5.00.
I finally got my battery and now find that standard wall wart posts don't fit. Most posts are 5.5mm outside and won't fit into the
hole on the battery. The ones I found with thinner posts, 3mm, have to small a hole in the center of the post to fit over the pin in the battery.
The outside diameter (O.D.) is actually 4.0mm with the inside pin (I.D.) 1.7mm.
Did you know that RadioShack was still alive on the web and some brick and mortar? This is the power supply and plug I got to charge my DX6
internal battery. LINKLINK
I had a very difficult time installing the new battery. First, getting the plug to lock into the receptacle in the radio was hard to do. Then
getting the battery down into the box and the door back on was a struggle. I hope never to have to remove it.
At this point if I were to recommend batteries for the DX6 I think I would say Panasonic eneloop rechargeable.
Just Google them as you can find them on Amazon, eBay, Best Buy and other places. Just replace the 4 basic AA's with these. Don't forget to get the charger.
Tip: The DX6 does not come in the
350 QX Ready to Fly (RTF) package, the DX5e TX is supplied. I chose to go with the Bind and Fly (BNF)
QX package. Very glad I did.
Tip: A good resource on Spektrum radios is the website of FreeChip. LINK
If you follow RCgroups I'm sure you know the name. FreeChip has helped a great many of us
with our Quads and radios. The website has gotten a little dated but still has plenty of content to enjoy.
One thing that needs to be added to the DX6 is the voice command "AP Mode" for the
I have requested this from Spektrum and expect it in the next release of the voice file. You can see a list of the current
voice commands here. The other three modes are listed at #118 - #120.
The 2 new Spoken Flight Modes that just came out that I'll use on my DX6 are "Photo Mode" and
"Stagility". Note they are not "AP Mode" and "Stagility Mode" as we might have expected. Also, changing these voice commands in the Spoken Flight Mode setup
will corrupt the sounds for the 2nd switch "G" in the 5 mode model configurations because the original .spm file was created on a
DX9. If you have a DX9 with the new voice
commands (English) loaded and want to import and patch my 2 Stagility files for me please
The DX6 can be considered the little brother of the
DX9. Because of this a good reference for the radio is the
DX9 Wikia page.
LINK You can find a link here to download a Spektrum .spm file. Unzip it and it contains a
QX file (along with many other) but I think it's only a 3 mode version. This was published before the firmware v2.0
and AP mode came out. See my write up on Stagility for a better .spm configuration to use.
Tip: Transmitter / radio modes are named by which primary control sticks perform what flight controls.
Mode II is most comonly used as it is much like the controls on a full sized airplane.
The “stick” controls the Aileron and Elevator functions. Rudder is controlled by the “rudder pedals” and the Throttle is
controlled with the pilot’s left hand on the side of the cockpit. A Mode II RC transmitter controls the aileron (tilting sideways, roll) and
elevator (tilting forward and back, pitch) with the right hand sometimes called the cyclic stick, while the rudder (rotation or spin, yaw) and throttle are controlled by
the pilot’s left hand.
I fly in mode II.
Since the DX6 is like the DX9 here is a
good forum post on TX stick centering.
This calibration needs to be checked with the 350 QX because the trims are not used to control flight.
Now with that said don't forget you need the QX accelerometer calibration done too.
LINK Another point about the QX
accelerometer calibration is that since the QX2 RTF comes with the
which has no trims the procedure has is slightly different if you have firmware V2.0. Check that out in the manual,
I find it a little easier to do and used it with my DX6.
Spektrum has just released a new Air Transmitter Comparison Chart LINK
DaddyBigas of RCgroups has created this
to compare the features of the different AirWare radios.
DX6 Spectrum Audio Editor how to add ANY sound in Review - by fishycomics LINK You
3M TX Screen Protectors for the DX6LINK.
There might be more options lower in the posts I have not kept up with it.
FYI, the OEM switches for the 3 position switches on the DX6 are a Salecom T80-T. They are all over eBay for $4.79.
Finally, Mobius 2 ActionCam Mini Sports Camera DashCam 1080P 60FPS H.265 HEVC H.264 AVC LINKLINK
New Mobius FW v2.41 Released LINK
and mSetup v188.8.131.52. LINK
Install mSetup and use it to get and install the firmware.
This is a great little camera. It's about half the weight of the GoPro and has a smaller frontal area (more streamlined). The movies are very clear and sharp even at
great distances. I like how the firmware is constantly
being updated adding new features. The support forum on RCgroups.com has the developers official testers answering
questions. I've had no issues with interference from this camera to the QX. The Windows GUI
tool makes it very easy to manage the settings and applying firmware updates. This is called mSetup and can be found here.
The Android tool shown below created by Therau2000 has been reinstated ( LINK
Another tool to use with the Mobius is an Android App. that better allows you to manage the cameras setting
options in the field. I have not used this as I don't have a smart phone or tablet. You can find it here.
An alternative is Mobius ActionCam by Tomas Chladek on the Google Play store. LINK
Tip: I use the 1080p 30FPS format when it's mounted to the QX and 720p 60FPS when
mounted on my cap.
I'm not at all good with video editing on my Win 7 PC but use editor Avidemux to work with my images. Avidemux is free and you can
get it here. LINK
Tip: I had the "Jello" effect in my video when the Mobius was suspended from the stock camera mount. To remedy this I forced
a foam ear plug into each of the anti-vibration balls. This firmed up the entire mounting unit. Use a full plug in each ball, don't cut them down in size. The ones I got were something like
Tip: I never saw any issues with interference with my GPS from this camera. Always got GPS lock quickly and from my Flytrex data
could see I acquired high numbers of satellites.
However since my V2.0 came with the copper tape for the GoPro I applied some to the bottom of my Mobius.
It's on the bottom opposite side from the heat syncs and buttons because it hangs upside down when mounted on the QX.
I did take special attention to cover the micro SD card that I keep in the camera slot. Since I use the USB cable to access the card I see no problem taping over the card.
It's always been assumed that the RFI issue was due to the writing to the SD card.
Tip: 3 Axis Mobius Gimbal for Blade 350 QX. LINK
From JohnCC of RCgroups
Their pricing is a bit annoying because if you click Gimbal options, there are two options. Gimbal + Motors only which is $60. Then Gimbal + motors + controller card
comes out to $100. Base price is always $40 for 'gimbal' which makes no sense. I went with the fully programmed and set up gimbal for $90 -- the 2-axis one. A full setup
for the 3-axis one jumps to $140. Still an amazing deal for the advertised weight and various mounts... they say you can even control the roll/pitch from a TX but I am a bit skeptical.
Tip: From this site you can download any of the prior firmware versions. I don't know why you would want to go backwards but you can.
Do this at your own risk. I'm assuming that these are all legit. LINK
Tip: The current hardware version is V3 or V6.7 as shown on the board.
Graduated filter hack for the Mobius action cam LINK You
Review: Here is a good review of the Mobius although it was done some time ago and a number of firmware updates have given the
camera some new features.
Flytrex Core 2:
This little gadget is awesome. It's like a "Black Box" for the QX and records flight information.
After you fly you log into their web site and upload you data from a micro SD card. I like that you don't fly with the SD card
installed so it doesn't suffer from the RFI issues the cameras cause recording video. After your upload you can then download
files that work in Google Earth or Excel and learn a great deal for your flying. (see samples on prior page)
Your uploaded missions convert to a map of your flight and also shows your maximum altitude, speed, distance flown and more.
All of this can be set to public or kept private.
As you fly and upload your missions you are awarded badges for milestones. I have a number of them now but a few are still within reach.
I hope to get awarded one for 50MPH, another for 1,000 feet from take off. I'm not likely going to go any higher up as the FAA ceiling is 400 feet.
But I do hope to get one or two for distance descended. The land in my area is quite flat so a 50 foot decent is my first goal.
With some luck I'll be able to find a location where I can go down 100 feet.
I'm now seeing a new feature when I export my mission data into Google Earth. In the top left of the window an animation tool allows you to play the flight
track. If you go into the options you can slow the play back down and even set it to loop. You also now get the time of day
shown in detail, something I didn't think they could do. If you get a long tail of yellow push pin icons showing you can adjust them or even remove them
by sliding the left crescent close to the slider ball that moves with the animation. Also you can click Edit and then Elevation Profile and you'll see new details
including the speed at different points along the flight path.
Tip: The wire harness for the QX is very small with fine wires. Ensure that
you orient the plug to the GPS module correctly. The wires are plenty long (on my QXV2.0) and the plug
easily dropped down through the hole in the leg to attach the Core 2 to the belly of the QX with Velcro.
Tip: I transfer the files from the SD card to my PC HD and then upload them. It's just faster and easier
and I can store them better.
Tip: Flytrex support just (10/04/14) notified me of a new public beta of the Core 2 firmware V4. The main
issue addressed for 350 QX is that now a date/time stamp will be on the mission flight log
files. Please read about this update
and the download with instructions are
LINK. As with any Beta use with caution,
however they do have a note on how to revert back to V3. Word is that the official release is only about a week out.
Tip: Flytrex has also posted a "Core LED Reference" page.
Understand what the flashing green light is telling you.
Xtreme CF Props:
So much has been said about the failures of the stock props. Some say that since the "B" props they haven't had issues.
Do you want to take that chance? These props are a match to the stock props in size and pitch and I find performance to
be very close to equal. I do like that because these are carbon fiber they don't flex or bend and strike the
QX arms. I also found them to be very close to balanced. I just added small strips of scotch tape
to the underside of the light end and got them well balanced. Not only is the size the same as the stock props but they mount
to the motors the same way. One thing I immediately noticed was the change in the sound of these props. Kind of a buzz now, nice.
Duworm (Sherman Knight), a very knowledgeable contributor to the RCgroups forums has done testing of different propellers and I find his
results surprising. LINK
Of the approximately 8 different props and setups he has looked at these Xtreme props don't get high
marks. They get the lowest flight times (high battery usage), and heat the motors more than most others. But he does
remark that they seems to give the most stable hover and most accurate flight response. When he tests he sits in a hover
with a heavy QX as it's carrying a gimbal and GoPro camera. I don't fly with much extra weight
and fly conservatively but much more than just a hover. I have not noticed any reduction in my flight times nor heat but I have not
measured them to the second either. I still give these Xtreme props a big thumbs up.
Adam at HeliPartsDirect
is a great guy to do business with. Check out their free shipping offer on their home page.
CNC Prop Caps:
These are just a simple add-on but I like them and they look good too. The plastic caps that are like the stock ones can crack when
over tightened, these will not. Be sure to use the included screws and apply thread lock to them.
Tip: Put the blue loctite on away from your plastic QX. Thread lock is corrosive to plastic.
I applied this to the screws the night before I installed them to allow plenty of time for the thread lock to cure. Read this email from the Loctite company.
LINK I've found this to be expensive and just use the standard blue and let it cure before use.
Again, blue thread lock vapor is corrosive to plastic.
Peg-leg Neck Strap:
This is a great neck strap, soft comfortable and works great. I got it in black and orange to match the
colors of the DX6. It's adjustable (I did have to break it free to slide it)
and is plenty long. To reach Peg-leg try sending him a PM from RCgroups, use the link on the prior page. Or, email him at PegLeg@GMX.COM
Tip: I put the small piece that attaches to the radio so that it sticks upward toward the antenna. This way
it doesn't lay on the information window when unclipped from the main section and stays out of the way.
350 QX Case:
I wasn't going to get this but I had a good discount coupon and now have no regrets. It helps keep everything
handy and well organized. I like to put my LiPo's in so the power plug is toward the center of the case.
Then after I've used one I'll put it back in with the power plug toward the outside of the case.
This helps keep track of them as the ones that are "OUT" are used.
Tip: I don't put the used batteries back in the foam holding holes right after removing them from the
QX as they can be warm and the foam will likely retain the heat.
I like this charger, the 20Amp. is plenty to handle a number of LiPo's when charging in parallel.
It's easy to use and the small size is nice on my crowded work bench. I still need to get up to speed on all of the features
of this charger. I've put a LiPo into storage at 3.85V. I've also checked the internal resistance in the different
brand batteries I run (see LiPo section below). I hope to soon have the optional 2000mAh Li-Ion transmitter battery for my
DX6 and will have to look for the proper wire jack to use with this charger.
Mike from 2Zo-rc (see power supply below) sent a long email with this suggestion. "If you want to get as
close to 4.2V per cell as possible, I'd suggest setting Bal.Speed = Slow and Bal.Trickle = ON."
Thank you Mike for the very nice and detailed note.
More information on LiPo chargers.
LiPo charger calculator. LINK
LiPo internal resistance calculator: LINK
This little gadget is a great time saver. I can charge six batteries all at one time. So charging
at 1C that would normally take 6 hours to charge all six of my LiPo's now only takes one hour. I
got the V2 from BuddyRC.com wanted the V3 model but it was never in stock. The only negative is
that it can be a little difficult to pull the EC3 plugs out but that's more an issue with the style
of EC3 plugs. A little more room on the board and I could use a tool (see below) to separate the plugs.
Because I have (2) 2200mAh and (4) 2700mAh LiPo's that I'll fly in any order I often need to charge a mix
of them with my Paraboard. My V2 Paraboard allows me to charge up to 6 batteries at one time. So I created a
chart that I keep next to my charger so I don't need to do the math each time I'm charging.
Different rated (mAh) batteries can be charged together because they are all three cell (3S) and they will balance
Tip: I always try to have my LiPo's at or near the same cell voltage when I use this
board. I look for no more difference than one tenth difference (ie: 3.7v - 3.8v).
When attaching your LiPo's first plug in the EC3 power plugs and give it a full minute before you
plug in the balance plugs. This allows the flow between batteries to self balance over the higher gauge wire
before the charger is started.
2200mAh 30C 3S 11.1V w/EC3
L 104mm x W 34mm x H 24mm
at 12 cycles
5-5-1 = 11mΩ
This is the battery that came stock with the Blade 350 QX.
It becomes the standard for all other comparisons for flight time, weight, size
(dimensions). The only comment I have is the power wires to the EC3 plug come
off the corner of the pack at a right angle. This makes it catch the side of
the battery door when removing the LiPo.
2200mAh 30C 3S 11.1V w/EC3
L 105mm x W 33mm x H 24mm
at 13 cycles
5-6-3 = 14mΩ
I like this battery, it fits well and has good length wires to the plugs (EC3 and 3S). Good price helps too. The balance plug (3S) comes with a clip that's nice and helps
with the grip.
The only negative might be its weight but not a big issue. For the price these are likely the winners in my book. I have heard the 2600mAh doesn't fit the
QX battery box well. I may have to get one to test that.
2700mAh 35C 3S 11.1V w/EC3
L 100mm x W 35mm x H 26mm
at 11 cycles
4-4-3 = 11mΩ
averages of 5 batteries.
These LiPo's being a little higher capacity do give maybe 2 minutes more flight time. However there have been many reported quality issues with them. Of the four
that I purchased one was defective right from the start.
A bad cell was reported by my charger and then I confirmed it with my multimeter. I know of another person who smoked his FC board ($200+) because the EC3
plug was installed with the wires reversed.
I have to say that when I reported my bad cell the vendor was quick to replace the battery, no questions asked. Recently a newer 3000mAh has come out. I was told
by my LHS that these do NOT fit the original
battery box, only the new QX2 model.
I contacted the supplier Common Sense RC and was told that the new 3000mAh battery does fit
ALL350 QX models.
More information on LiPo batteries.
15 things every LiPo battery user should know LINK
LiPo Article Series:
Here on the "Maps and More ..." page you will find a good series of articles on LiPo's.
LiPo Safe Bag:
I have not used this yet. I purchased it for when I use the stock charger in my truck. The
cords on this charger are short and I didn't want to charge LiPo's on the front seat. I then
got the extension cord (see list) so I can charge from the cigarette lighter from outside the vehicle.
But still I haven't done any charging at the field yet.
This little tool has the 3 sizes needed to work with all of your QX screws. (1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm)
Each of the tips store in the handle and the size is clearly marked on them.
2.0mm w/blue thread lock
. Camera Mount
. Body Shell
2.5mm w/blue thread lock
Phillips very small brass
When tightening the small 1.5mm body screws I just use the hex tip without it inserted into the handle.
This helps as you don't over tighten as much.
This inexpensive balancer works well. It's small but for the QX props it's fine.
Why balance your propellers? To cut down vibration that will give you jittery video from your mounted camera
and reduce ware and stress on your entire quad. Some people even balance their motors.
Look here LINK for "how to" prop balance videos.
When I balanced my plastic "B" props I sanded them but on my carbon fiber ones I added small strips of Scotch tape.
Always balance to the underside of the propellers. The air flow is mostly over the top side in flight, and heck they just
look better if you don't fuss with the tops.
Remember that every gram you add to your quad must be lifted. The more weight the shorter the flight times.
You need to consider this when looking at larger LiPo's. It's likely that a higher capacity battery is heavier
and this can lead to diminishing returns in flight time too.
This useful device comes in handy when at the field and you need to check a battery. "Did I use this
battery yet kid? Did I?"
Printed on this unit it says accurate to 0.005v. That simply isn't true with mine. And mine also shows different voltages on each cell
incorrectly. Hey it was cheap, and OK for what I use it for.
Well after finding out that the LiPo Monitor above wasn't very accurate I decided to get this unit. It seems good but I haven't used it more
than to see how it works. I like the one display where it shows the difference from your lowest to highest cells. A good balance should not
have a span greater than a tenth of a volt (0.10V). It also shows the remaining percent charge so you can follow the 80% rule. LINK
This small device can measure LiPo, LiFe, Li-ion, NiMH, and Nicd batteries.
3S to JST connector:
I used this to connect my front facing LED lights. Just plug into the balance lead on the main LiPo and you're good.
I dropped one JST lead down the hole in the leg just in case I have a future requirement like a FPV box or to power a gimbal.
I only used 3 of the JST leads as I found room very tight inside the QX body so
I just clipped off the extra plugs.
What can I say, did you look at the price? It seems these props will fly off every crash and flying in the house that often means behind some furniture. I spend as much time hunting
for these tiny props as I do flying. It's great to have spares. The green match my Proto-X body.
Just remember to mount the correct clockwise and counter-clockwise props on the correct motors.
Proto-X prop guard:
These prop guards are a must for flying the Proto-X. They not only protect the props and greatly help keep them
on the little motor posts but they also glow in the dark. This picture is without the running lights turned on (to
help show off the glowing guards).
Note that I had to drill the holes larger in the eBay
mount to accept the aluminum pin. Use a 3/16th inch bit and it works well.
I wanted to take video of my 350 QX flying and not just from the
So I bought a very cheap baseball cap and drilled a hole in the visor. Then using a couple of large plastic washers mounted a bolt through it.
This bolt and thread is the size needed to go into the bottom of the Mobius. I found that without a view finder that it was difficult to keep the quad in frame.
I placed 2 of these lights out through the front air slots so they sit just above the anti-vibration camera mount. I
was hoping that it would help with seeing the front and maintaining orientation. They do not. Just not enough in bright
sun light. Now thinking I may try red reflective tape on the sides of the landing gear.
I used these on the LED lights. This made the lights modular and I can unplug them if wanted.
AB 3S Clips:
One of these clips came on the balance plug of the Glacier LiPo. It makes handling the small 3S plug easier. Handy
when using the Paraboard.
I put these clips on each of my LiPo's but found that on the Lectron Pro's the balance wires were shorter. Adding these clips made it a little more difficult to
plug into my light harness as there just isn't much room in the battery bay for anything extra.
Car power extension:
This extension cord for the cigarette lighter in the car allows me to place the stock HH charger outside the vehicle. I
did not want to set the charger on the front seat and risk the chance of having a LiPo fire.
Micro SD card:
This SD card is used in my Flytrex Core 2 to transfer the mission files to my PC for uploading to the vendors site. Flytrex recommends that
you use a class 2 speed card. This was labeled CL2 on the Newegg web site but when I got it, it turned out to be a class 4.
I contacted the Newegg partner that sold it and they said that CL2 isn't manufactured anymore. And if I had any issues they would refund my purchase.
I'm glad to say it works fine. My PC has an SD media reader slot so the standard size adapter works well for my needs.
Micro SD card:
This 2nd Micro SD card is used in my Mobius camera. Again I was looking for a slower class card due to the vendors recommendations. I got
this in part due to the USB adapter that came with it. I figured if I wanted to use my Micro SD cards with my laptop (in the field) I
would be all set. My laptop does not have a SD card reader slot.
Snap Ring Pliers:
I use these to separate (unplug) the EC3 power plugs and sockets. Use the one that opens the tongs when you squeeze
together the handles. Just slip the tips into the grove on the side of the connected plugs and it will easily seperate them.
DC Power Supply:
I made up my own power supply for my LiPo charger from a unit I got from the data center at work. I had to solder the right power taps to get it to turn on. Then
needed to get a set of wire leads with 4mm banana plugs to interface with
the charger. Last because the server rack that housed this power supply supplied the cooling fans I had to rig up a small fan
to blow air through the unit.
If I had not had this unit I likely would have gotten this one from 2ZO-RC. LINK
The price isn't bad and it's modified to be a much better performing device. Can you find them cheaper? Yea, around $20 but you'll probably get what you pay for (cheap).
I have been selected by the U.K. aerial photography company JooVuu to test and review their new Mobius gimbal. This is a new gimbal made special for the light
weight of the Mobius.
I'll admit that adding a gimbal wasn't high on my list of accessories to get. But I am excited to see what it's all about.
One thing I know that is important to me is the ability to easily and quickly remove the gimbal. I don't fly with my camera a lot and don't want to
sports fly with it mounted. So I'll be looking for some kind of quick disconnect mount.
It's been a very long time since I've heard anything about this beta test. The forum setup for it seems to be abandoned. I'm
thinking this has become "vaporware".
Complete Hardware Set: 350 QX (BLH7817)
just in case you need a couple of screws. And hey, they come with thread lock on them.