4_Props   Tips & Reviews



Tips and Reviews of some of the gear I use.


Blade 350 QX:
I'm a lifelong geek and the technology in today's hobby quadcopters is amazing. Starting with a small Syma X1 I got hooked on the sport. The X1 is small, inexpensive, very durable, and a lot of fun to fly. But it has limitations. It doesn't handle much of a breeze and the "toy" radio transmitter is very limited. So I spent much of the winter studying the larger 350 class quads. I settled on the Blade 350 QX. This craft has tons of tech. to keep me happy. GPS (position hold silo, return to home (RTH), stick relativity, Safe Circle), an electronic compass (works w/GPS), barometric pressure sensors (altitude control), an accelerometer (direction and tilt) and more. The different flight modes make it very flyable for the novas to the expert. It can easily handle 15MPH wind and has amazing performance.

When I purchased my QX the firmware V2.0 had just come out and added aerial photography (AP) mode to the Smart, Stability, and Agility flight modes. The GPS antenna had been relocated to the rear back arm to move it further from the front camera mount to help reduce RFI. And a new status error check matching the compass and GPS was added.

I've found the 350 QX to be a ball to fly. I still fly quite conservatively but my skill grows each time I go out. Flying any RC aircraft you can expect crashes and my learning curve has included a few. The bad news is the QX is quite fragile and does not handle crashes. I'm already on my 3rd body and this one has been repaired with glue. The good news is that all the parts are readily available. One of my considerations to buy the Blade was the legendary support from Horizon Hobby. Having good certified local hobby shops with supplies was a must too. I do get a lot of items online but local support is great.

Many of the experienced guys on the QX forums put down Smart mode. They do not like Stick Relativity and warn not to get dependant on it. I have vision issues and find it a life saver. A quad unlike a plane looks the same no matter which way it is facing. And to make that even worse a quad can fly in any direction so it's forward flight might not be the same as the direction it facing. This is called orientation. Normally you fly relative to the front of the aircraft. This seems logical until you fly toward yourself. Then aircraft relativity demands you reverse the radio transmitter stick controls. Meaning that to go right you push the stick to the left and vice versa, like working in a mirror. Now I had mastered this with my X1 but since it had limited capabilities to fly very far away it was always visible. Flying my QX it's common to have it out 400 feet or more and at those distances it becomes very difficult for me to see it's detail. As I've already said I do fly in Stability mode (w/o Stick Relativity) but not at much distance. I've found that I can handle Stability better if I stay off the rudder stick a keep the front of the quad facing away from me.

I think one of the more amazing flying "tricks" is flying a pass in front of your self in Smart mode and using stick relativity give the 350 QX hard yaw on the stick. This will spin the quad while it flies a stright line. You can throw the stick the opposite way and reverse the spin in the same pass. Not many models can do that!

I think a more difficult transition from flying the simple X1 and going to the 350 QX is not the quad but the radio. Moving from the toy TX the X1 BNF had to the DX6 is like day and night. I was a thumb flyer before. I would just place my thumbs on the tops of the sticks and directed the X1 in flight. With the DX6 I can still get away with that when in Smart mode but not when moving up through the higher modes. Since Smart mode has considerable self leveling active you don't get into trouble if you go to the full range of travel with the sticks. This is even true with 100% rates set. But when moving up to Stability mode the QX is much faster and more responsive. I've found that I need to use my thumb and fore finger on the side of the sticks to better maintain control. This probably isn't news to any experienced RC pilot but this is my 1st good TX. To me this is what has made the transition from Smart to Stability more difficult and not orientation.

Throttle stick control is mode dependant. In Smart mode the ceiling is 45 meters high or about 150 feet. The throttle movement is relative to that height, so 50% would be half way up or about 22M/75 feet. But in AP mode there is not a fixed ceiling so it works differently. AP mode at 50% throttle stick gives you a hover much like Smart modes altitude hold. And up or down from the middle either raises or lowers the QX. Please remember that the FAA wants us to stay under 400 feet. The 1st RC craft that hits a manned aircraft ruins the hobby for all of us.

Above I talked about crashes and along with that goes repairs. The prices on parts cover a large range and can get expensive. But I've found that most damage is found to occur on the plastic body. The body is thin (I'm sure to keep weight down) and has little strength. However when installing the 32 small body screws it firms up well. The internal parts, mostly electronics are straight forward and easy to replace as needed. The motors do need monitoring. I simply use my finger to gently turn a propeller and both feel and listen as the motor turns. It should turn freely and make no sound (like grinding). Also the motor shaft should not have any play in it when pulling the prop up or down. This would be a sign of bearing failure.

Doing the maintenance calibrations on the QX is important and needs to be done if you have had a crash or just every couple of months to have optimum performance. I have a link to the Blade how to videos on the main page. I've performed the Pressure Sensor and Compass calibrations a number of times. But the Accelerometer calibration has eluded me. I watched the video and read the manual and continued to have problems maintaining control of the QX in flight to where I could complete the procedure. Adjusting the flight with just the trim controls was not easy. Finally I called Horizon Hobby (HH) support and they said to use the procedure in the new QX2 manual. The reason I was told is because even though I have a 1st generation QX I have the firmware V2.0 model. This firmware is also used in the QX2. In this routine you don't fly in the same modes as I had been doing before. Also the trims are not used as the RTF QX2 comes with the DX4 which doesn't have trim controls. So as soon as I have a day when the wind is calm I'm giving this a try. I'll update this when I do.

So do I like the 350 QX?            I LOVE IT!

Tip: Here is a very nice write up by Flightengr on HeliFreaks.com about the different flight modes. LINK It has been updated to include FW V3.0.

Tip: This is not so much a tip as a clarification of terms. The 1st 350 QX was upgraded in the Spring of 2014 to the QX with firmware V2.0. So this became the QX V2 This added the AP mode (Aerial Photography, purple) and moved the GPS antenna out to the right rear arm. In the Summer of 2014 the new QX2 was released. This model is the Aerial Photography model meaning that it comes with a gimbal and C-Go camera. The QX2 also had some minor hardware changes such as a long receiver antenna running down the leg, and a fatter body to accommodate a larger 3000mAh battery. Now Blade has come out with the 350 QX2 without the AP hardware (no gimbal or camera). This is considered the QX2 "Base" model.
Summary: The 1st upgrade was firmware V2.0 making the QX V2.0 which added the AP flight mode. Then the hardware was upgraded adding aerial photography gear and this was named the QX2 but lets call it the QX2 AP. And the newest version of the 350 is called the QX2. Confused, I understand why.

Tip: Another point to make on terminology is about Smart mode. Smart mode is the easy flight mode meaning that all of the automated controls are active. These include altitude hold and GPS position hold. This mode also has the Safe Circle that creates a 15 foot diameter circle behind the QX that the Quad will not enter. I can't tell you how many time I have read someone refer to the Safe mode. It's Smart mode with the Safe Circle and it's indicated by the green status light.

Tip: I have crashed hard two times. You can find my write up on how to replace the body of the QX here. LINK

Spektrum DX6:

8/19/16 How to - Spektrum Audio Editor LINK You

Please click "Show More" for links and more information

After a number of months now I can report that the replacment LiPo HH sent is holding at storage charge (about 7.5V). Since I'm not flying my DX6 is just sitting in my case. Before this battery both of the other ones suffered from the drain problem many have reported. Thank you HH for standing by me on this issue.

Here is the newest version on the right. LINK

Nov/13/2015 Spektrum™ AirWare™ Software Update Multi Rotor changes LINK for my DX6 this is the page LINK

Oct/22/2015 Spektrum released a new version of the AirWare firmware (V1.03 for the DX6). This is a big update for Multi-Rotor models. Go to the Community Site Login LINK and pick it up. Here is the change log PDF Don't forget to get the new sound file V1.08 that's mentioned at the bottom of the change log pdf. The install instructions are on both sets of download pages.

What's New

While the new programming will vary slightly from transmitter to transmitter, common features will include:

  • New channel input names: Altitude, Roll, Pitch and Yaw
  • New multi-rotor items for pre-flight checklists
  • New multi-rotor flight mode setup
  • New channel assignment options that let you customize control inputs for each flight mode
  • New voice alert options for multi-rotor functions

    Update Version List

    This AirWare release applies to the following transmitters and updates their software to the version shown. Remember to back up the models in your transmitter's memory to an SD card before installing this update.



    The DX6 G2 is the newest of the Spektrum radio transmitters (TX). It uses the same AirWave software as the DX9 and DX18 so that model configuration files (.spm) are transferable and usable across them all. They also share the same voice files. Voice is one of the major features I like on this radio. With voice commands you can stay focused on your flying and don't have to take your eye off to look down at the TX. Throw a switch and you get verbal feedback confirming the action. Use the countdown timer and you'll know your flight time and estimated battery usage. And if the batteries in your DX6 are running low it will clearly give you a warning. You have detailed options that allow many customizations to what and when commands are said. Note: This TX does not have a vibrate mode to alert you of events.

    This TX has three 3-way switches and four 2-way switches and AirWave allows you to configure them for any function you wish. The display panel is clear and easy to read as it's back lit. And the radio is comfortable to handle with its rubber grips. Another of the key points is that this TX can store 250 model configurations. I only fly the 350 QX with it but I still have 3 or 4 different model setups that I've tried out. The programming is fairly straight forward, once you find all the options. A simple roll and click with one button takes you through the many menus and features. A standard SD card can be used to import and export model configurations. As well installing updates to either the operating system or language files is easy to perform.

    This is a full size radio and is well balanced. It hangs from the neck strap loop flat and level. The joy sticks are smooth and provide precise control while flying. The tops of the sticks are crown like and easy to grip when using thumbs. A feature I've not used is the wireless trainer, but sounds like an excellent feature. The radio comes with 4 AA batteries but I have on order the optional Li-Ion 2000mAh rechargeable pack. The transmitter protocol is DSM2 and DSMX and the 350 QX uses DSMX for binding.

    Tip: When replacing the AA batteries with the optional Lithium Ion rechargeable battery pack be sure to change the setting for battery type so that the low battery warning alarm is correct. This is a 2S 2000mAh 7.4V pack. There seems to be a lot of confusion about this DX6 battery but I'm 99.9% sure that it is the SPMA9602 LINK.
    You can get it from HH with a power supply that has A/C plugs for different countries. I think it's way to expensive. Most any wall wart that is A/C to 12V DC and 500mA (0.5Amp.) output should work. Look on eBay for one under $5.00.
    I finally got my battery and now find that standard wall wart posts don't fit. Most posts are 5.5mm outside and won't fit into the hole on the battery. The ones I found with thinner posts, 3mm, have to small a hole in the center of the post to fit over the pin in the battery. The outside diameter (O.D.) is actually 4.0mm with the inside pin (I.D.) 1.7mm. Did you know that RadioShack was still alive on the web and some brick and mortar? This is the power supply and plug I got to charge my DX6 internal battery. LINK    LINK
       I had a very difficult time installing the new battery. First, getting the plug to lock into the receptacle in the radio was hard to do. Then getting the battery down into the box and the door back on was a struggle. I hope never to have to remove it.
    At this point if I were to recommend batteries for the DX6 I think I would say Panasonic eneloop rechargeable. LINK Just Google them as you can find them on Amazon, eBay, Best Buy and other places. Just replace the 4 basic AA's with these. Don't forget to get the charger.

    Tip: The DX6 does not come in the 350 QX Ready to Fly (RTF) package, the DX5e TX is supplied. I chose to go with the Bind and Fly (BNF) QX package. Very glad I did.

    Tip: A good resource on Spektrum radios is the website of FreeChip. LINK If you follow RCgroups I'm sure you know the name. FreeChip has helped a great many of us with our Quads and radios. The website has gotten a little dated but still has plenty of content to enjoy.

    Tip: One thing that needs to be added to the DX6 is the voice command "AP Mode" for the 350 QX. I have requested this from Spektrum and expect it in the next release of the voice file. You can see a list of the current voice commands here. The other three modes are listed at #118 - #120.

       Here is a list of the new English V1.07 2/2015 voice commands. It was created by Steve1916 on RCgroups.
    .PDF   or   .XLSX   or   Google Docs

    The 2 new Spoken Flight Modes that just came out that I'll use on my DX6 are "Photo Mode" and "Stagility". Note they are not "AP Mode" and "Stagility Mode" as we might have expected. Also, changing these voice commands in the Spoken Flight Mode setup will corrupt the sounds for the 2nd switch "G" in the 5 mode model configurations because the original .spm file was created on a DX9. If you have a DX9 with the new voice commands (English) loaded and want to import and patch my 2 Stagility files for me please eMail me.

    Tip: The DX6 can be considered the little brother of the DX9. Because of this a good reference for the radio is the DX9 Wikia page. LINK You can find a link here to download a Spektrum .spm file. Unzip it and it contains a QX file (along with many other) but I think it's only a 3 mode version. This was published before the firmware v2.0 and AP mode came out. See my write up on Stagility for a better .spm configuration to use.

    Tip: Transmitter / radio modes are named by which primary control sticks perform what flight controls. Mode II is most comonly used as it is much like the controls on a full sized airplane. The “stick” controls the Aileron and Elevator functions. Rudder is controlled by the “rudder pedals” and the Throttle is controlled with the pilot’s left hand on the side of the cockpit. A Mode II RC transmitter controls the aileron (tilting sideways, roll) and elevator (tilting forward and back, pitch) with the right hand sometimes called the cyclic stick, while the rudder (rotation or spin, yaw) and throttle are controlled by the pilot’s left hand. I fly in mode II.

    Since the DX6 is like the DX9 here is a good forum post on TX stick centering. LINK This calibration needs to be checked with the 350 QX because the trims are not used to control flight. Now with that said don't forget you need the QX accelerometer calibration done too. LINK Another point about the QX accelerometer calibration is that since the QX2 RTF comes with the DX4 which has no trims the procedure has is slightly different if you have firmware V2.0. Check that out in the manual, I find it a little easier to do and used it with my DX6.

    Tip: Spektrum has just released a new Air Transmitter Comparison Chart LINK





    Tip: DaddyBigas of RCgroups has created this chart to compare the features of the different AirWare radios.





    DX6 Spectrum Audio Editor how to add ANY sound in Review - by fishycomics LINK You

    Tip: 3M TX Screen Protectors for the DX6 LINK. There might be more options lower in the posts I have not kept up with it.

    RC Screen Protectors LINK

    Tip: FYI, the OEM switches for the 3 position switches on the DX6 are a Salecom T80-T. They are all over eBay for $4.79.


    Mobius Camera:


    Finally, Mobius 2 ActionCam Mini Sports Camera DashCam 1080P 60FPS H.265 HEVC H.264 AVC LINK LINK

    New Mobius FW v2.41 Released LINK and mSetup v3.0.6.1. LINK Install mSetup and use it to get and install the firmware.

    This is a great little camera. It's about half the weight of the GoPro and has a smaller frontal area (more streamlined). The movies are very clear and sharp even at great distances. I like how the firmware is constantly being updated adding new features. The support forum on RCgroups.com has the developers official testers answering questions. I've had no issues with interference from this camera to the QX. The Windows GUI tool makes it very easy to manage the settings and applying firmware updates. This is called mSetup and can be found here. LINK

    Update 1/2016 The Android tool shown below created by Therau2000 has been reinstated ( LINK ). Another tool to use with the Mobius is an Android App. that better allows you to manage the cameras setting options in the field. I have not used this as I don't have a smart phone or tablet. You can find it here. LINK

    An alternative is Mobius ActionCam by Tomas Chladek on the Google Play store. LINK

    Tip: I use the 1080p 30FPS format when it's mounted to the QX and 720p 60FPS when mounted on my cap. I'm not at all good with video editing on my Win 7 PC but use editor Avidemux to work with my images. Avidemux is free and you can get it here. LINK

    Tip: I had the "Jello" effect in my video when the Mobius was suspended from the stock camera mount. To remedy this I forced a foam ear plug into each of the anti-vibration balls. This firmed up the entire mounting unit. Use a full plug in each ball, don't cut them down in size. The ones I got were something like THESE.

    Tip: I never saw any issues with interference with my GPS from this camera. Always got GPS lock quickly and from my Flytrex data could see I acquired high numbers of satellites. However since my V2.0 came with the copper tape for the GoPro I applied some to the bottom of my Mobius. It's on the bottom opposite side from the heat syncs and buttons because it hangs upside down when mounted on the QX. I did take special attention to cover the micro SD card that I keep in the camera slot. Since I use the USB cable to access the card I see no problem taping over the card. It's always been assumed that the RFI issue was due to the writing to the SD card.

    Tip: 3 Axis Mobius Gimbal for Blade 350 QX. LINK From JohnCC of RCgroups
    Their pricing is a bit annoying because if you click Gimbal options, there are two options. Gimbal + Motors only which is $60. Then Gimbal + motors + controller card comes out to $100. Base price is always $40 for 'gimbal' which makes no sense. I went with the fully programmed and set up gimbal for $90 -- the 2-axis one. A full setup for the 3-axis one jumps to $140. Still an amazing deal for the advertised weight and various mounts... they say you can even control the roll/pitch from a TX but I am a bit skeptical.

    Tip: From this site you can download any of the prior firmware versions. I don't know why you would want to go backwards but you can. Do this at your own risk. I'm assuming that these are all legit. LINK

    Tip: The current hardware version is V3 or V6.7 as shown on the board.

    Tip: Graduated filter hack for the Mobius action cam LINK You

    Review: Here is a good review of the Mobius although it was done some time ago and a number of firmware updates have given the camera some new features. LINK

    Flytrex Core 2:
    This little gadget is awesome. It's like a "Black Box" for the QX and records flight information. After you fly you log into their web site and upload you data from a micro SD card. I like that you don't fly with the SD card installed so it doesn't suffer from the RFI issues the cameras cause recording video. After your upload you can then download files that work in Google Earth or Excel and learn a great deal for your flying. (see samples on prior page) Your uploaded missions convert to a map of your flight and also shows your maximum altitude, speed, distance flown and more. All of this can be set to public or kept private.

    As you fly and upload your missions you are awarded badges for milestones. I have a number of them now but a few are still within reach. I hope to get awarded one for 50MPH, another for 1,000 feet from take off. I'm not likely going to go any higher up as the FAA ceiling is 400 feet. But I do hope to get one or two for distance descended. The land in my area is quite flat so a 50 foot decent is my first goal. With some luck I'll be able to find a location where I can go down 100 feet.

    I'm now seeing a new feature when I export my mission data into Google Earth. In the top left of the window an animation tool allows you to play the flight track. If you go into the options you can slow the play back down and even set it to loop. You also now get the time of day shown in detail, something I didn't think they could do. If you get a long tail of yellow push pin icons showing you can adjust them or even remove them by sliding the left crescent close to the slider ball that moves with the animation. Also you can click Edit and then Elevation Profile and you'll see new details including the speed at different points along the flight path.

    Tip: The wire harness for the QX is very small with fine wires. Ensure that you orient the plug to the GPS module correctly. The wires are plenty long (on my QX V2.0) and the plug easily dropped down through the hole in the leg to attach the Core 2 to the belly of the QX with Velcro.

    Tip: I transfer the files from the SD card to my PC HD and then upload them. It's just faster and easier and I can store them better.

    Tip: Flytrex support just (10/04/14) notified me of a new public beta of the Core 2 firmware V4. The main issue addressed for 350 QX is that now a date/time stamp will be on the mission flight log files. Please read about this update LINK and the download with instructions are LINK. As with any Beta use with caution, however they do have a note on how to revert back to V3. Word is that the official release is only about a week out.

    Tip: Flytrex has also posted a "Core LED Reference" page. LINK Understand what the flashing green light is telling you.

    Xtreme CF Props:
    So much has been said about the failures of the stock props. Some say that since the "B" props they haven't had issues. Do you want to take that chance? These props are a match to the stock props in size and pitch and I find performance to be very close to equal. I do like that because these are carbon fiber they don't flex or bend and strike the QX arms. I also found them to be very close to balanced. I just added small strips of scotch tape to the underside of the light end and got them well balanced. Not only is the size the same as the stock props but they mount to the motors the same way. One thing I immediately noticed was the change in the sound of these props. Kind of a buzz now, nice.

    Duworm (Sherman Knight), a very knowledgeable contributor to the RCgroups forums has done testing of different propellers and I find his results surprising. LINK Of the approximately 8 different props and setups he has looked at these Xtreme props don't get high marks. They get the lowest flight times (high battery usage), and heat the motors more than most others. But he does remark that they seems to give the most stable hover and most accurate flight response. When he tests he sits in a hover with a heavy QX as it's carrying a gimbal and GoPro camera. I don't fly with much extra weight and fly conservatively but much more than just a hover. I have not noticed any reduction in my flight times nor heat but I have not measured them to the second either. I still give these Xtreme props a big thumbs up.

    Tip: Adam at HeliPartsDirect is a great guy to do business with. Check out their free shipping offer on their home page.

    CNC Prop Caps: These are just a simple add-on but I like them and they look good too. The plastic caps that are like the stock ones can crack when over tightened, these will not. Be sure to use the included screws and apply thread lock to them.

    Tip: Put the blue loctite on away from your plastic QX. Thread lock is corrosive to plastic. I applied this to the screws the night before I installed them to allow plenty of time for the thread lock to cure. Read this email from the Loctite company. LINK I've found this to be expensive and just use the standard blue and let it cure before use.

    Warning: Again, blue thread lock vapor is corrosive to plastic.

    Peg-leg Neck Strap:
    This is a great neck strap, soft comfortable and works great. I got it in black and orange to match the colors of the DX6. It's adjustable (I did have to break it free to slide it) and is plenty long. To reach Peg-leg try sending him a PM from RCgroups, use the link on the prior page. Or, email him at PegLeg@GMX.COM

    Tip: I put the small piece that attaches to the radio so that it sticks upward toward the antenna. This way it doesn't lay on the information window when unclipped from the main section and stays out of the way.

    350 QX Case:
    I wasn't going to get this but I had a good discount coupon and now have no regrets. It helps keep everything handy and well organized. I like to put my LiPo's in so the power plug is toward the center of the case. Then after I've used one I'll put it back in with the power plug toward the outside of the case. This helps keep track of them as the ones that are "OUT" are used.

    Tip: I don't put the used batteries back in the foam holding holes right after removing them from the QX as they can be warm and the foam will likely retain the heat.

    iCharger 206B:
    I like this charger, the 20Amp. is plenty to handle a number of LiPo's when charging in parallel. It's easy to use and the small size is nice on my crowded work bench. I still need to get up to speed on all of the features of this charger. I've put a LiPo into storage at 3.85V. I've also checked the internal resistance in the different brand batteries I run (see LiPo section below). I hope to soon have the optional 2000mAh Li-Ion transmitter battery for my DX6 and will have to look for the proper wire jack to use with this charger.

    Tip: Mike from 2Zo-rc (see power supply below) sent a long email with this suggestion. "If you want to get as close to 4.2V per cell as possible, I'd suggest setting Bal.Speed = Slow and Bal.Trickle = ON."
    Thank you Mike for the very nice and detailed note.

    Charger Info:
    More information on LiPo chargers. LINK and LINK
    LiPo charger calculator. LINK
    LiPo internal resistance calculator: LINK

    All about lipo balance connectors LINK

    This little gadget is a great time saver. I can charge six batteries all at one time. So charging at 1C that would normally take 6 hours to charge all six of my LiPo's now only takes one hour. I got the V2 from BuddyRC.com wanted the V3 model but it was never in stock. The only negative is that it can be a little difficult to pull the EC3 plugs out but that's more an issue with the style of EC3 plugs. A little more room on the board and I could use a tool (see below) to separate the plugs.

    Tip: Because I have (2) 2200mAh and (4) 2700mAh LiPo's that I'll fly in any order I often need to charge a mix of them with my Paraboard. My V2 Paraboard allows me to charge up to 6 batteries at one time. So I created a chart that I keep next to my charger so I don't need to do the math each time I'm charging. Different rated (mAh) batteries can be charged together because they are all three cell (3S) and they will balance charge.
    Charge Amp. 2200mAh 2700mAh 2700mAh (2) 2700mAh (3) 2700mAh (4)
    2200mAh 2.2A 4.9A 7.6A 10.3A 13A
    2200mAh (2) 4.4A 7.1A 9.8A 12.5A 15.2A
    2700mAh   2.7A 5.4A 8.1A 10.8A

    Tip: I always try to have my LiPo's at or near the same cell voltage when I use this board. I look for no more difference than one tenth difference (ie: 3.7v - 3.8v). When attaching your LiPo's first plug in the EC3 power plugs and give it a full minute before you plug in the balance plugs. This allows the flow between batteries to self balance over the higher gauge wire before the charger is started.

    E-flite LiPo:
  • 2200mAh 30C 3S 11.1V w/EC3
  • L 104mm x W 34mm x H 24mm
  • Weight 173g
  •     Internal resistance
    at 12 cycles
    5-5-1  =  11mΩ
    This is the battery that came stock with the Blade 350 QX. It becomes the standard for all other comparisons for flight time, weight, size (dimensions). The only comment I have is the power wires to the EC3 plug come off the corner of the pack at a right angle. This makes it catch the side of the battery door when removing the LiPo.

    Glacier LiPo:
  • 2200mAh 30C 3S 11.1V w/EC3
  • L 105mm x W 33mm x H 24mm
  • Weight 185g
  •     Internal resistance
    at 13 cycles
    5-6-3  =  14mΩ
    I like this battery, it fits well and has good length wires to the plugs (EC3 and 3S). Good price helps too. The balance plug (3S) comes with a clip that's nice and helps with the grip. The only negative might be its weight but not a big issue. For the price these are likely the winners in my book. I have heard the 2600mAh doesn't fit the QX battery box well. I may have to get one to test that.

    Lectron LiPo:
  • 2700mAh 35C 3S 11.1V w/EC3
  • L 100mm x W 35mm x H 26mm
  • Weight 195g

  •     Internal resistance
    at 11 cycles
    4-4-3  =  11mΩ
    averages of 5 batteries.
    These LiPo's being a little higher capacity do give maybe 2 minutes more flight time. However there have been many reported quality issues with them. Of the four that I purchased one was defective right from the start. A bad cell was reported by my charger and then I confirmed it with my multimeter. I know of another person who smoked his FC board ($200+) because the EC3 plug was installed with the wires reversed. I have to say that when I reported my bad cell the vendor was quick to replace the battery, no questions asked. Recently a newer 3000mAh has come out. I was told by my LHS that these do NOT fit the original battery box, only the new QX2 model.
    I contacted the supplier Common Sense RC and was told that the new 3000mAh battery does fit ALL 350 QX models.

    LiPo Info:
    More information on LiPo batteries. LINK and LINK and Video.

    15 things every LiPo battery user should know LINK

    LIPO Battery Cold Weather Usage Tips LINK

    LIPO Battery Winter Storage LINK

    LiPo Article Series:
    Here on the "Maps and More ..." page you will find a good series of articles on LiPo's. LINK

    LiPo Safe Bag:
    I have not used this yet. I purchased it for when I use the stock charger in my truck. The cords on this charger are short and I didn't want to charge LiPo's on the front seat. I then got the extension cord (see list) so I can charge from the cigarette lighter from outside the vehicle. But still I haven't done any charging at the field yet.

    Hex Driver:
    This little tool has the 3 sizes needed to work with all of your QX screws. (1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm) Each of the tips store in the handle and the size is clearly marked on them.
    Hardware Inventory:
    Usage Qty.     Size
    . Props 8      2.0mm w/blue thread lock
    . Camera Mount 4      2.0mm
    . Body Shell 32      1.5mm
    . Motors 16      2.5mm w/blue thread lock
    . Legs 2      2.0mm long
    . Motherboard 4      Phillips small
    . Compass 2      Phillips very small brass

    Tip: When tightening the small 1.5mm body screws I just use the hex tip without it inserted into the handle. This helps as you don't over tighten as much.

    Prop Balancer:
    This inexpensive balancer works well. It's small but for the QX props it's fine. Why balance your propellers? To cut down vibration that will give you jittery video from your mounted camera and reduce ware and stress on your entire quad. Some people even balance their motors. Look here LINK for "how to" prop balance videos.

    Tip: When I balanced my plastic "B" props I sanded them but on my carbon fiber ones I added small strips of Scotch tape. Always balance to the underside of the propellers. The air flow is mostly over the top side in flight, and heck they just look better if you don't fuss with the tops.

    Digital Scale:
    Tip: Remember that every gram you add to your quad must be lifted. The more weight the shorter the flight times. You need to consider this when looking at larger LiPo's. It's likely that a higher capacity battery is heavier and this can lead to diminishing returns in flight time too.

    LiPo Monitor:
    This useful device comes in handy when at the field and you need to check a battery. "Did I use this battery yet kid? Did I?"

    Tip: Printed on this unit it says accurate to 0.005v. That simply isn't true with mine. And mine also shows different voltages on each cell incorrectly. Hey it was cheap, and OK for what I use it for.

    RC CellMeter-7:
    Well after finding out that the LiPo Monitor above wasn't very accurate I decided to get this unit. It seems good but I haven't used it more than to see how it works. I like the one display where it shows the difference from your lowest to highest cells. A good balance should not have a span greater than a tenth of a volt (0.10V). It also shows the remaining percent charge so you can follow the 80% rule. LINK

    Tip: This small device can measure LiPo, LiFe, Li-ion, NiMH, and Nicd batteries.

    3S to JST connector:
    I used this to connect my front facing LED lights. Just plug into the balance lead on the main LiPo and you're good.

    Tip: I dropped one JST lead down the hole in the leg just in case I have a future requirement like a FPV box or to power a gimbal.

    Tip: I only used 3 of the JST leads as I found room very tight inside the QX body so I just clipped off the extra plugs.

    Proto-X props:
    What can I say, did you look at the price? It seems these props will fly off every crash and flying in the house that often means behind some furniture. I spend as much time hunting for these tiny props as I do flying. It's great to have spares. The green match my Proto-X body.

    Tip: Just remember to mount the correct clockwise and counter-clockwise props on the correct motors.

    Proto-X prop guard:
    These prop guards are a must for flying the Proto-X. They not only protect the props and greatly help keep them on the little motor posts but they also glow in the dark. This picture is without the running lights turned on (to help show off the glowing guards).

    Camera Mount:
    Tip: Note that I had to drill the holes larger in the eBay mount to accept the aluminum pin. Use a 3/16th inch bit and it works well.

    Tip: I wanted to take video of my 350 QX flying and not just from the QX mount. So I bought a very cheap baseball cap and drilled a hole in the visor. Then using a couple of large plastic washers mounted a bolt through it. This bolt and thread is the size needed to go into the bottom of the Mobius. I found that without a view finder that it was difficult to keep the quad in frame.

    LED lights:
    I placed 2 of these lights out through the front air slots so they sit just above the anti-vibration camera mount. I was hoping that it would help with seeing the front and maintaining orientation. They do not. Just not enough in bright sun light. Now thinking I may try red reflective tape on the sides of the landing gear.

    JST Connectors:
    I used these on the LED lights. This made the lights modular and I can unplug them if wanted.

    AB 3S Clips:
    One of these clips came on the balance plug of the Glacier LiPo. It makes handling the small 3S plug easier. Handy when using the Paraboard.

    Tip: I put these clips on each of my LiPo's but found that on the Lectron Pro's the balance wires were shorter. Adding these clips made it a little more difficult to plug into my light harness as there just isn't much room in the battery bay for anything extra.

    Car power extension:
    This extension cord for the cigarette lighter in the car allows me to place the stock HH charger outside the vehicle. I did not want to set the charger on the front seat and risk the chance of having a LiPo fire.

    Micro SD card:
    This SD card is used in my Flytrex Core 2 to transfer the mission files to my PC for uploading to the vendors site. Flytrex recommends that you use a class 2 speed card. This was labeled CL2 on the Newegg web site but when I got it, it turned out to be a class 4. I contacted the Newegg partner that sold it and they said that CL2 isn't manufactured anymore. And if I had any issues they would refund my purchase. I'm glad to say it works fine. My PC has an SD media reader slot so the standard size adapter works well for my needs.

    Micro SD card:
    This 2nd Micro SD card is used in my Mobius camera. Again I was looking for a slower class card due to the vendors recommendations. I got this in part due to the USB adapter that came with it. I figured if I wanted to use my Micro SD cards with my laptop (in the field) I would be all set. My laptop does not have a SD card reader slot.

    Snap Ring Pliers:
    Tip: I use these to separate (unplug) the EC3 power plugs and sockets. Use the one that opens the tongs when you squeeze together the handles. Just slip the tips into the grove on the side of the connected plugs and it will easily seperate them.

    DC Power Supply:
    I made up my own power supply for my LiPo charger from a unit I got from the data center at work. I had to solder the right power taps to get it to turn on. Then needed to get a set of wire leads with 4mm banana plugs to interface with the charger. Last because the server rack that housed this power supply supplied the cooling fans I had to rig up a small fan to blow air through the unit.

    Tip: If I had not had this unit I likely would have gotten this one from 2ZO-RC. LINK The price isn't bad and it's modified to be a much better performing device. Can you find them cheaper? Yea, around $20 but you'll probably get what you pay for (cheap).

    I have been selected by the U.K. aerial photography company JooVuu to test and review their new Mobius gimbal. This is a new gimbal made special for the light weight of the Mobius. I'll admit that adding a gimbal wasn't high on my list of accessories to get. But I am excited to see what it's all about. One thing I know that is important to me is the ability to easily and quickly remove the gimbal. I don't fly with my camera a lot and don't want to sports fly with it mounted. So I'll be looking for some kind of quick disconnect mount.

    It's been a very long time since I've heard anything about this beta test. The forum setup for it seems to be abandoned. I'm thinking this has become "vaporware".

    Complete Hardware Set: 350 QX (BLH7817) LINK just in case you need a couple of screws. And hey, they come with thread lock on them.